Arequipa: Easter Brunch and breathtaking monasteries

While record numbers of Peruvians celebrated good Friday, went to church and had parades ( my knowledge of Catholicism is limited) my current travel buddies and I decided to celebrate: with brunch.
I slaved over some cinnamon pecan sticky buns that smoked up the hostel kitchen. These kitchen mishaps are quite awkward when you're using a communal kitchen. However, they were delicious ( recipe courtesy of Martha of course) and with a veggie omelet, home seemed closer than usual.

To work up our appetite we went to this monastery in town dating back to the 1500s. Arequipa is Colonial, beautiful and sometimes I wonder, am I Peru?
Inner courtyards, geraniums and brightly colored chalked walls were breathtaking and inspiring. Now I want an inner garden in my house, have all the rooms in the house surrounded by the natural world.. That would be pretty sweet!!
Off hiking in Colca canyon tm at 2 in the morning so I bid everyone good night!!

12 hrs of confined pain: Civa bus ride

Because of my now favorite holiday ( sarcasm here) all the buses were booked out of Huacchina and we ended up finding a ticket, only on a crappy bus.
As I sat down and without reclining my seat my knees were already impaled in the seat in front of me; sleep became a distant memory.
Add in the screaming child behind me, the heat and lack of deodorant wearing individuals it created a recipe for discomfort.

However, I shudder to think of what this ride would have been like for my nearly 7 ft brother or 6'6 Dad. First of all, I doubt they'd even be able to sit down!! Budget travel favors the more compact individuals.

Instead of being a negative nancy, I will also include the positives!
Thank god this bus ride was at night because the perilous curves and people killing drops in the day would have made me cry. Now I understand why there is always a giant picture of Christo ( Christ) at the front of all buses.

After 9 hours on the bus we stopped in the most disgusting side cafe ever, the bathrooms we sans running water and there was no water and scoop bucket. Joanna flat out refused to go , while Pam and I did not have iron bladders.
Hand sani and headaches from refusing the breathe: we decided to stretch our legs. Except that all the men didn't want to wait for the bathroom so every wet patch of dirt soaked with urine. Needless to say, exercise abandoned.

Arriving in Aeroquipa and ditching out first hostel with the 3 in house bars filled with drunk Aussies in favor or a quieter section of time- worth it:)
Out of the desert, into some jeans. Life is great.

Huacachina: a sandbox for adults

When I thought of Peru I thought jungle, ruins and green, similar to the landscape I've become accustomed to in Ecuador. Despite the fact I'm aware of the converging MTZ air currents I still didn't expect the barren wasteland I was encountered with. Although beautiful in its own way, the landscape has succumbed the South American attitude towards trash. Which is, to not care. Therefore everywhere you look there is garbage in the sand, blowing across the road and floating in the water by the ocean. Moreover, styrofoam ( aka: enemy 1) is everywhere. Its hard to recycle, never biodegrates and in a place where recycling is almost nonexistent, I sure it will remain forever lodged in some pristine beautiful place. Sad, but probably true.

The upside of the desert is that there exists an oasis. Huacchina is a tiny town outside of Ica ( about 15 minutes) that provides sand boarding and buggy rides on the massive dunes. If you are even feeling studious you can attend adrenaline Peru's first " professional sand boarding school." I considered changing majors mom and dad!! ( just kidding )
The nazca lines are quotes close but unfortunately we are traveling during Santa Semana which means the cost of everything doubles. Despite the fact I've insisted I'm not celebrating, no one seems to care and I still have to pay more, darn!
After meeting more Aussies here I learned the exchange rate is about 1.9 to the US dollar ( now I think it's 1.6) but it still.. Jealous!!

BUSES, Trujillo, Huarez and la clima Malo

Busing about 27 hrs in 2.5 days I found made it to Huaraz, the mountainous trekking capital of Peru.
However, I not only ran into Zach tm Vilcabamba friend on the bus to Trujillo I also encountered some more amazing Peruvian hospitality.
Back on the road again I also have enjoyed speaking a more Spanish ( fluent Frances is no longer with me to pick up my slack).
I helped a russian named Viltia through the border with my Spanish, felt pretty legit.
However, my crowning achievement and best experience was at Casina Desa Cafe:
Walking to downtown Trujillo on Domingo ( Sunday) when nearly all business are closed, is not very excited and after I got my fill of colonialism.. In 10 minutes. I went in search of some real food and wifi.
Lucky for me, I didn't have to go far.
I was walking up a street looking like a "mochillada" ( backpacker) and went by a chalk board that said best coffee in town. If you know me, then you know I turned right in!
It was deserted I thought it was closed, but it is just a Sunday in catholic sudamerica.
Casina Desa is an art gallery, coffee shop in a renovated enormous colonial house, complete with a garden.
The sign didn't lie and I had the best cappuccino ever, and some great veggie pizza. I also talked with the two girls working there in Spanish ( Yahoooo) and before I knew it I was giving a tutorial on latte art.
I ought my bus ticket and returned I the cafe for more awesome company.
Dahila( her mom) and Pierina were the greatest. Really. I felt at home and they made me dinner before I left and invited me back to their homes anytime :)
Awww!!
Here is a taste of the cafe art and my Trujillian friends:)

On a cultural note Semana Santa or Easter Sunday is coming and it is a huge deal in traditional Catholic Peru.
I've seen two parades in the last 24 hrs. Both pretty bad. The one of Jesus below war taken right before the 4 men carrying the heavy Jesus altar, nearly dropped him. Regardless, a cultural experience nonetheless.

On the home front .. As of now, no Alaska. Apparently all the jobs I applied for about 50 other people, wanted them too! Holding out for the other 5 I've yet to hear back from:)

The kindness of strangers: Out of Galapagos and on to Peru

Friday night, I was treated to dinner by Will and Frances and truly am sorry to part ways. From swimming through penguin poop, sweating over 2 liters a days and getting lathered in Vaseline( mommy Frances did my sunburns right!) I would say we are pretty close now:) I also talked them into taking about 10 pounds of my stuff back to the states with them, then having them ship it from Maine... They're the best.
Saturday I took my customary cold morning shower, a must in flaming hot Santa Cruz, packed my bag and off to the airport. Technically off to a taxi, then to a bus, then to a ferry, then on another bus, then!! Baltra the airport.
Ran into my Irish friend, Colum,who's traveling the world had a nice chat then boarded. Here is where the real sorry begins:
Not only did I have a classy isle seat with about 5 times that amount of room I'm accustomed to( thanks LAN) I also had a really nice isle mate. Naomi is a 31 year old LAN flight attendant who patiently conversed with me in my bumbling Spanish. I took a nap, we landed and off to baggage claim I went. I was a bit apprehensive because I was hoping to get on a bus to Piura Peru and the only way to do so is check out the terminal, and other companies that are spread out on several blocks around.. Not ideal in dangerous, muggy, 90 degree Guayaquil. That and the persistent" no tengo meido viajar soltera" ( you arn't scared traveling solo?) question made me want to say... "Wasn't before and should I be??" made me slightly uneasy.
However as I met up with Colum and was walking out of baggage claim there was Naomi, waiting for me with her two friend. I said " see ya mate" to Colum and we all packed into Jose's carro pequina.
Naimo and her friends took me to Oremeno first here she told me-"I'll do the talking they'll try and rip you off"
And we discovered no buses for today :(
No worries she said, back we went the car and off the bus terminal were I bus them goodbye and they wished me well.
They not only wouldn't except any money, but also saved me a headache, 8 bucks and additional strife.
I'll never see her again, and only have gratitude to give in thanks. It is awesome feeling to meet people who go out of their way to make sure a complete stranger gets somewhere safely.

Upon arriving at the bus station, my giant mochilla and overall whiteness lending me a hand in the police office pointing me towards the buses for Peru. 25 bucks later and my faith in humanity renewed I had a ticket to Peru leaving 5 hrs and a smile on my face.

I'm trying to make it to Huaraz to start a trek Monday and it just may happen!!

On another note: terminal terrestre in Guayaquil is a huge mall on the bottom. It even has a super market, KFC and McDonalds, so Americanized. Anyway I was super excited because I was able to get a tooth brush I needed, toothpaste, water, apples, kiwis and cheese ( dinner) with a knife ( to cute the goods ) for 8.52.. Deal!! Also has some snacks for the bus. After Galapagos that dollar needs to stretch.

Photos below are some I forgot, a pic of will and France's and some group:)

Final Cruise Day

It is a surreal feeling swimming with a white tipped shark and seeing over 15 different fish in all different colors.
I was into to checking boxes off, this would be one giant one.
I'm looking forward to the Peruvian highlands because the reality is that tropical climates confuse my body. Humidity and heat are like triggers for profuse sweating and alarm. Needless to say, I won't be sipping coconuts like a cast away any day soon.
Today we also saw the classic Galapagos mirador view from Bartolomeu and the beauty of the natural world is ever present as always. Take a look for yourself